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Mont Blanc. Gouter route.

Mont Blanc 4810m


Mont Blanc is the highest mountain in the European Alps. It is a wonderful mountaineering adventure for any aspiring alpinist. It is a significant challenge with rocky scrambling, steep snow climbing and exciting exposure. Standing on the summit on a clear morning high above the Chamonix valley with epic views across the Alps and the rest of Europe is and incredibly rewarding and uplifting experience. With a glaciated snow and icy summit at 4810m above sea level it is a serious mountain and thorough training, preparation and acclimatising is highly recommended. I guide Mont blanc as the pinnacle of either a 5 or 6 day course, aimed at fit and determined mountain climbers. 

Guiding Ratio

The ratio is 1:2. One guide to two clients. 


Mont Blanc, like any mountain, has many different routes to the summit. The 2 easiest and most frequented routes to the summit are on the French side of the mountain. These are the 2 classic guided routes and what most people will climb. They are the Gouter Route, and the Trois Monts. I guide whichever I feel is in the safest condition. In recent years this has been the Gouter Route more often than not. 

Course Outline Example

Day One- Meeting in Chamonix and equipment check. Hike up to a mountain hut. Descend onto a glacier and cover essential mountain skills, using crampons, ice axe and basic ropework. 

Day Two- With an early alpine start, climb a significant peak, eg Gran Paradiso 4000m or Aiguille du Tour 3540m. Return to Chamonix.

Day Three- A day route using the Aiguille du Midi Cable car, eg Cosmiques arete or Point Lachenal. 

Day Four- Climb and hike to the Tete rouse Refuge on Mont Blanc. 3167m. Spend the night and prepare for the climb the next day. 

Day Five- A very early start. Climb Mont Blanc 4810m and descend to the Gouter Refuge 3863m.

Day SIx- Descend from the Gouter refuge back down to Chamonix Valley.

When to Climb

Mont Blanc is climbed from June to September. The months of July and August were traditionally the best times to climb but I think the best and most perfect conditions these days can be early season in June, or later in September. 

Mont Blanc. Gouter Route. Bosses Ridge.
Sunrise on the Dome du Gouter. Mont Blanc
Summit of Mont Blanc.
Summit ridge on Mont Blanc.
Mont Blanc Bosses Ridge. Vallot refuge.
Gouter Route on a beautiful summer day.. Mont Blanc.
Brenva face of Mont Blanc.
Aiguille du Gouter. Scrambling and climbing on Mont Blancs Gouter route.
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