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Mittellegi hut. Eiger.

The Eiger. 3967m. AD

The Eiger is a magnificent mountain in the Bernese Oberland. The mountain is famed for its enormous 1800m North Face. The history behind the first ascent of this Face is deep and fascinating. An Ascent of the 1938 route is an experienced and talented alpinists dream. One can wait years for the stars to align to have good conditions, time and a weather window to climb this route. 

 The Mitteleggi ridge tackles the Eastern flank of the mountain and is an exceptionally beautiful and enagaging route at a more reasonable grade of AD+. In my opinion it is one of the best routes of its grade in the Alps. I guide the Eiger as part of a 6 day Course with technical training, preparation and acclimatisation. 

Guiding Ratio

The Guiding Ratio on the Mittellegi Ridge is 1:1. Similar to the Matterhorn Course in a group booking scenario the first 3 days are possible at a 1:2 ratio, bringing in an extra guide for the 3 Eiger climb days. 


The classic guiding route is a traverse of the Mountain up the Mittellegi ridge (East ridge) and down the South ridge then over the Eigerjoch to finish at the Jungfraujoch. If conditions on the Mittellegi are not favourable an ascent and descent of the South ridge is also possible. I would also guide the classic 1938 Heckmair, North Face route, in good conditions with a highly experienced client. 

Course Example 

Day One- Meet in Chamonix and check gear and equipment. Take the Helbronner Cable car up to the Torino hut and climb a route. Eg Dent du Geant 4000m, Rochefort Arete 4001m, or Traverse of the Aiguille de Entreves 3604m. Spend a night in the Torino Hut.

Day Two- Climb a Rock route on the Mont Blanc du Tacul eg Le Roi de Siam on the Petit Capucin, or The Tour Ronde 3792M. Return to Chamonix.

Day Three- Multi pitch rock climbing in th Arve Valley, Mirroir d'argentine, or a traverse of the Aiguille de Perrons. 

Day Four- Drive to Grindelwald. Take the Jungfraujoch train up to the Eismeer station. Descend the Rock tunnels onto the Glacier and climb up to the Mitteleggi Refuge. The Journey through the mountain railway and out the tunnel is very interesting. The Hut is in an incredible position perched on the knife edge. 

Day Five- Climb the Mitteleggi ridge to the summit of the Eiger and descend the south ridge. Continue to the Jungfraujoch. One option is to stay a night in the Monch Hut and climb the Mönch 4107m on the final day.

Day Six- Flexible Day. Either another summit or a wind down day to practice skills learnt through the week and go rock climbing. 


£500 per day plus guides expenses. 

The Mittellegi Ridge, seen from the hut.
The Mittellegi Hut (3,355 m) is a mountain hut in the Swiss Alps, located on the Mittellegi ridge of
Looking back on the Mittellegi hut from the climb.
Short roping on the Mittellegi ridge.
Light rays in the Bernese Oberland.
Andrew climbing the Mittellegi Ridge
Morning alpenglow on the Mittellegi
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